Sash windows, explained simply.

Yes. Sticking is usually paint build-up, swollen timber or a worn parting bead. Rattling is gaps between the sash and frame. Both are everyday repairs, and draught-proofing cures the rattle at the same time.

Repair wherever the timber is sound. It typically costs 40–60% less than replacement, keeps the original joinery and character, and is more sustainable. Replacement is only worth it where rot is extensive. I’ll tell you honestly which yours need.

Usually, yes. Localised rot is cut out and the area rebuilt with spliced-in seasoned timber or repaired with resin, then redecorated. It’s often far cheaper than a new window and indistinguishable once finished.

Upgraded bubble seals are routed discreetly into the beads and rails so the sash still slides freely but the gaps are sealed. Historic England notes it can cut air leakage through a sound sash by up to around 86%, so for most period homes it’s well worth it.

Yes. The seals close the gaps that cause rattling and reduce draughts, and they cut down noise too. For a bigger reduction in noise, new double-glazed sashes make the most difference.

As a guide, draught-proofing is roughly £300–£450 per window, repairs £80–£500, decorating £250–£800 per window, and new Accoya sashes £600–£800 per sash, depending on the job. I give you a fixed written quote after a free survey, valid for 30 days, so there are no surprises.

Yes. Since 2002, replacement glazing falls under Building Regulations and needs signing off by Building Control, or self-certifying by a registered installer. Genuine repairs and draught-proofing don’t need approval. I’ll let you know what your particular job requires.

A U-value is simply a measure of how much heat a window lets escape, so the lower the number, the better it keeps the warmth in. In England and Wales, new replacement windows need a U-value of 1.6 W/m²K or lower to meet Building Regulations. My new double-glazed Accoya sashes are made to meet that standard, so you get modern warmth and lower bills without losing the traditional look.

I’m registering with CERTASS, the government-backed scheme for window installers. Once I’m approved, any new windows I fit are certified as meeting Building Regulations automatically, so you won’t need separate sign-off from Building Control. Genuine repairs and draught-proofing don’t need any certification either way.

For most houses, like-for-like replacement is permitted development. A conservation area may need permission only where an Article 4 Direction applies. Listed buildings normally need Listed Building Consent even for like-for-like, but genuine repairs and discreet draught-proofing are generally fine. Always confirm your property’s status with the local planning authority.

A properly repaired and redecorated timber sash can last decades. The original slow-grown timber is often denser and better than modern wood. Re-corded, draught-proofed and repainted on a sensible cycle, they routinely outlast modern uPVC replacements.

Typically every 5–8 years depending on exposure, plus the odd bit of pulley lubrication and a check of the cords. Regular decoration protects the timber from moisture and is the biggest single factor in how long they last.

Small jobs are very welcome. A single sticking, rattling or rotten window is worth a callout. I’m happy to quote one window or the whole house, and I’ll be honest about what each actually needs.

I do. The same person who surveys and quotes your windows does the work and stands behind it. No subcontractors, no agency staff, no salesman, and a fixed written quote that doesn’t change.

Every job comes with a clear written guarantee, and the cover depends on the work. I’ll always recommend the lightest option that does the job:

• Option A, repairs and draught-proofing of your existing sashes: 1 year on labour, 1 year on parts.
• Option B, new double-glazed sashes fitted into your existing boxes: 1 year on labour, 5 years on parts.
• Option C, a complete new box sash window, made to match and fitted: 5 years on labour, 10 years on parts. This is the last resort, only where a window genuinely can’t be saved, and the route I’ll always try to avoid.

Yes, fully. I carry public liability insurance and professional indemnity insurance, so you, your home and your windows are covered while I’m working. It’s the peace of mind that you’re in safe, properly covered hands.

Yes. I hold a Waste Carrier’s Licence, so any old timber, glass, beads and other materials from your job are taken away and disposed of properly and legally. Nothing gets fly-tipped, and nothing’s left behind for you to clear up.

North London and South Hertfordshire, including Barnet, Enfield, Haringey, Winchmore Hill, Hampstead and Highgate, and across South Herts towns like St Albans, Hertford, Potters Bar, Watford and Welwyn. If you’re nearby, just ask.